*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0}img{display:block;max-width:100%;height:auto}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:.22em}a:hover{text-decoration-thickness:2px}a:focus-visible{outline:3px solid currentColor;outline-offset:6px}p{line-height:1.7;margin:0 0 1.25em;max-width:70ch}h1,h2,h3{line-height:1.08;text-wrap:balance}h1{margin:0 0 .6em;letter-spacing:-.025em}h2{margin:1.7em 0 .6em}nav{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.65rem 1.6rem}nav a{padding:.4rem 0}nav [aria-current=page]{text-decoration-thickness:3px}footer{font-size:.86rem;line-height:1.6}footer p{margin:0}.skip{position:absolute;left:1rem;top:-8rem;padding:.7rem 1rem;z-index:9;background:#fff;color:#111}.skip:focus{top:1rem}figure{margin:0}figcaption{font-size:.85rem;line-height:1.5;margin-top:.7rem}li{line-height:1.7}table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;text-align:left}th,td{padding:.7rem .8rem;border-bottom:1px solid currentColor;vertical-align:top}caption{text-align:left;font-weight:bold;margin-bottom:.7rem}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}}body{background:#e7edf0;color:#173e65;font:17px/1.7 Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif}.travel-cover{max-width:1050px;margin:2.5rem auto;background:#fffdf7;border:1px solid #9eb3c3}.travel-header{padding:2rem 3rem;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:2rem;align-items:start;border-bottom:1px solid #9eb3c3}.brand{font:600 1.05rem/1.5 'Verdana',sans-serif;max-width:22ch;text-decoration:none}.travel-header nav{font:13px/1.5 Verdana,sans-serif;justify-content:flex-end;gap:.8rem}.passport{padding:3rem}.passport h1{font-weight:normal;font-size:clamp(2.7rem,5vw,4.6rem);max-width:17ch;margin-bottom:1rem}.route-map{margin:1.7rem 0 2.5rem}.route-map img{max-height:180px;width:100%;object-fit:contain}.route-map figcaption{font:12px/1.6 Verdana,sans-serif;text-align:right;color:#4c6780}.essay{column-count:2;column-gap:3rem;column-rule:1px solid #c6d1d9}.essay p{orphans:3;widows:3}.essay p:first-child:first-letter{float:left;font-size:3.4rem;line-height:1;padding:.08rem .4rem 0 0;color:#a6342d}.essay-link{display:inline-block;font-family:Verdana,sans-serif;font-size:.9rem;color:#a6342d;margin:.7rem 0 1.5rem}.essay h2{font-size:1.35rem;font-weight:normal}.pocket-note,.three-spaces{break-inside:avoid;border-top:1px solid #9eb3c3;margin-top:1.5rem}.travel-footer{padding:1.3rem 3rem;border-top:1px solid #9eb3c3;font:13px/1.6 Verdana,sans-serif}@media(max-width:750px){.travel-cover{margin:0;border:0}.travel-header{display:block;padding:1.6rem 6vw}.brand{max-width:none}.travel-header nav{justify-content:flex-start;margin-top:1rem;gap:1rem}.passport{padding:2rem 6vw}.passport h1{font-size:clamp(2.6rem,11vw,4rem)}.essay{column-count:1}.route-map{margin:1.5rem 0 2rem}.travel-footer{padding:1.3rem 6vw}}